An Interesting Chemise

[peteyfrogboy]

I'm sifting through images from the first quarter of the 16th century, looking for new summer clothing ideas, and I came across this interesting woman's chemise in a painting by Vincenzo Catena:

http://www.wga.hu/html/c/catena/judith.html

The neckline has a small pleated ruffle, but that's not the interesting thing. The lower part of the sleeve has been pleated down tight to the arm. I've never seen one like this before. Granted it's an allegorical subject (Judith), but it seems an unusual choice for a fantastical garment. Given some of the sleeve shapes at the time, it makes a certain amount of practical sense.

Comments

Excellent find!

[mrs-mediocre.livejournal.com]

I've never seen this before, either. I agree that it makes sense, and I want (very much) for this to be an actual garment design. My next question would be: have we seen details that indicate this style of chemise in portraits of real people? Say, for instance, a more pleated chemise sleeve ending peeking out from under the dress sleeve? I'll be looking.

Barb/Irina

Re: Excellent find!

[peteyfrogboy.livejournal.com]

Alessandra noticed a similarity to the cartridge pleating at the cuffs of some of the extant (though later) chemises here:

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam.htm

Not as extreme as Judith's, but sort of the same idea.

[operafantomet.livejournal.com]

I've actually commented on that, here:
http://geocities.com/pisslei/camicia

I think, like you, that it is an extant garb. The allegorical paintings of Venice often served as "an excuse" to paint beautiful women for wealthy patrons, and they were painted in their underwear or partly nude - or the combination of garbs and props could be eccentric. But they're rarely (if ever?) seen in totally allegorical garbs.

This category of painting (I call them "Pin ups".... He-he) isn't seen too much elsewhere. I am told the reason is the counter reformation, which had specific rules and opinions on how a painting should look, what it could depict, and how. The counter reformation wasn't as present in Venice than the other Italian city states; I think Veronese was the only one tried because of a painting. Part of that process can be read here:
http://operafantomet.livejournal.com/103400.html

(his "punishment" was that he was ordered to re-paint parts of it - and he also re-named it)