peteyfrogboy: (Default)
I had a very good weekend. Midwinter A&S went well as far as I know; I had a great time, but I'm easy to please. There were a lot of good and inspiring entries. I had a bit of a personal challenge trying to judge an 11th century Angle-Saxon tunic that I knew next to nothing about, but between my fellow judges and the documentation I hope I managed to put together some useful feedback.[livejournal.com profile] adelavanbrugge scored well with both of her C&I entries, and got some good comments. She's already plotting her next project, which should surprise no one.

This was also the field test of the Bronzino suit, which performed reasonably well. I cobbled together a pair of sewn-in netherstockings from an old pair of 15c linen hose. They worked fine standing up, but when I tried to sit down (a precarious adventure at the best of times in this kind of suit) half the stitches blew out on one side, as you can see here. I think that a new or refurbished pair of stockings will make this a good suit for being flashy in, but the old grey linen suit (which I switched into in the afternoon) is still my most comfortable.

Royal court was brief but filled with good things, not the least of which was Mistress Temair's well-deserved elevation to the Laurel. Baronial court was in the afternoon and was quite entertaining. I got to do several scrolls for this court, including the A&S tourney champion scroll, a pair of matching baronial Tower awards for Arnora and Cynwrig, and Cynwrig's Baronial Jeweler scroll. One piece of court business that I did not have prior knowledge of was [livejournal.com profile] serafinalamanni 's selection as baronial A&S champion, which was a happy surprise for all. Court was followed by an amazing feast cooked by our own George Ploppy, and a bit of dancing before people started packing up.

On Sunday I dusted off my armor and went to the amazingly well-attended baronial fighter practice. I think I managed not to embarrass myself too badly. I didn't sustain any serious injuries, but my entire body is stiff and sore today; my hands are so stiff it's difficult to type. It was a good time, though, and I wish there were a fighter practice that was within a reasonable distance from home. I may have to make some more inquiries in that direction...
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

I got the codpiece finished and installed today, which pretty much completes the suit. I need to make a proper point to hold up the codpiece, and maybe open up the sleeves at the wrists just a tad, but the actual construction is done. I'll get better pictures at some point with better light and accessories and all that, but I wanted to make up for the lack of pictures lately with a few right now. The panes of the trunk hose sit a little funny when viewed from certain angles and/or when I stand a certain way, but I don't know if there's really a fix for that. Certainly not one I feel like attempting right now.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
I tried taking a picture of the trunk hose in their current state, but when I'm not wearing them all you an see is a pile of slashy silk. What I do have pictures of is the codpiece, or at least the foundation of it. I sewed up the center back seam of the trunk hose, leaving the bottom curve of the crotch and the entire center front open. The foundation of the codpiece is basiacally a large triangular gusset that is sewn into the bottom of the crotch seam, with a flap that covers the center front opening of the trunk hose. The top six inches or so of the center front is closed by five pairs of hooks and eyes.
The codpiece will be consist of (from outside to inside) a layer of silk (perhaps with an interlining of linen if it seems necessary) that will have the padded "display" portion of the codpiece, a layer of fulled wool pad stitched to a layer of linen, and the light blue satin for the inner lining.

The first picture shows the linen and wool stitched together.

The second shows the entire foundation basted together and tacked into place. I'm going to do some shaping at the front which is currently marked by pins. The outer layer will be made of three pieces: the triangular gusset and two halves of the padded portion.

The third picture shows the gusset portion tacked into the crotch seam from the inside. The two sides of the seam turned out to be not quite equal in total length, so one side had to be eased in some for everything to line up.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
Still no pictures, I know (must find the camera), but progress has been made. Each leg of the trunk hose has had its edges bound, and now has seven pairs of eyelets, which should be sufficient (the rearmost pair on each leg will probably go unused). I also sewed up the center back seam. In short, all that's left is the hooks and eyes in the front and the codpiece, which I have yet to pattern.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)


It's been a while since I've posted anything here, but I have been making slow progress on the trunk hose. The left leg is mostly completed, and the right leg is ready to assemble. The first picture shows the left leg with the foundation and lining sewn together, and waist- and leg-bands installed. The lining is gathered at the top and bottom, but not padded. The next picture shows the panes for the left leg finished and laid out in order. Each pane went through the following process:
  1. Cut the taffeta, linen interlining, and satin lining.
  2. Mark the trapunto lines on the back of the taffeta.
  3. Slash the taffeta from the front side. The slashing pattern had to evolve somewhat as I went along.
  4. Put the taffeta and interlining together and work the trapunto.
  5. Turn under the top and bottom edges of the outer layer, then sew in the lining at the top and bottom.
  6. Bind the edges.
Then the panes were sewn on to the waist- and leg-band, gathering as necessary to fit. The panes along the inside of the leg were not gathered, to allow the panes to hang more or less vertically.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
With the help of my able apprentice I got the patterning for my trunk hose worked out this afternoon. I'm going to get one side done and work out the process before I start on the other side. So far I have the foundation put together, the lining installed, and the taffeta attached at the leg and waist bands. Still to go are the panes (including more trapunto), bindings, and eyelets, though the last two will probably happen after the other side has caught up to the first.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
I had a great time at Silver Hammer this weekend. Hanging out with friends, no responsibilities, and marvelous weather (during the day, at least). I wore the new shirt with the old red suit during the morning, and it seemed to work fine, though the cuffs didn't want to fold back neatly all the way around. I may be able to work on that a little. I also wrote a poem for the Middle Eastern themed bardic competition:

A Rubaiyat )
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

Starting from my joined hose pattern, I drafted a pattern for the new trunk hose foundation. I made it wider in the leg, since it doesn't have to be as tight as normal hose. I basted it together and to the lacing strip of the doublet, and cut it to length just above the knee. I realized that the doublet the original pattern had been made for had a lower waistline in front, so I added some length in the back of the new pattern. I had originally planned to use this as the actual foundation for the hose, but I decided to re-cut it from the last of some heavy brown brushed cotton twill I've had around the house forever. Hopefully the extra stretch will be helpful. I also found some light blue rayon(?) satin to use for the trunk hose lining (i.e. the stuff between the panes). Depending on how much is left over I may line the panes themselves with it as well. The panes will be the same silk taffeta as the doublet, interlined with the blue cotton/linen, with the same slashing and trapunto pattern. I'm planning for 5 7" wide panes for each leg.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

The blackwork is finished on the collar and cuffs. I still need to add more around the neck slit and put the tassels on the collar, but I wanted to get some pictures up now that it's essentially finished. After a little testing I decided to give the toggle-and-eyelet closure a shot on the cuffs, and it seems to work pretty well. Secure, yet low-profile. The toggles are tightly rolled strips of the linen I used for the doublet lining. The shanks are done with buttonhole stitch around several strands of quilting thread.

The collar ties are made of the same silk that I used for the embroidery. I sewed each loop through the same spot on the collar and did a simple five-loop fingerloop braid on them. They're a little fiddly and slippery to tie, but they get the job done. Most of the time I don't intend to tie them anyway.

ETA:

Finished up the blackwork and added the tassels. That's about all there is to do on this shirt. I'm contemplating rebuilding the doublet collar to fit better, but I'm not sure about that yet. Either way, there's not much left to help me put off making the hose now, so I guess I'll start work on that tomorrow...
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

Blackwork on the collar is done. I'm planning to continue it down the collar band and front slit as well, but I'm going to do the cuffs first.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

Over the weekend I got the shirt built, minus closures and embroidery. I started on the collar blackwork tonight. I'm going to do black ties on the collar (probably fingerlooped out of the silk), but I don't know exactly what I want to do on the cuffs yet. I don't want anything as bulky as a button, but ties are fussy. There's an example in PoF4 of a cuff with an eyelet-and-toggle closure, which is intriguing. I'm pretty happy with the shirt as a whole, though the linen (cotton/linen?) is a bit heavier than I'd like. It's very soft though, is very easy to work with, and defies wrinkles. We'll see how it works in actual practice.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

After looking at the portraits, I decided to play with sewing a seam with insertion stitch. Because it doesn't take long enough to put a shirt together already... :)
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

The lacing strip is installed, so technically the doublet is now finished. As I said, though, I'm going to try to fix the fit in the shoulders. That can wait until tomorrow. :)

ETA: In case anyone's curious, the lacing strip is made from the same linen as the lining, folded over and sewn up with a running stitch so the eyelets are going through three layers. The folded edge is sewn to the seam between the body and skirt of the doublet with a close whip stitch. I put one eyelet in every inch, so I shouldn't have to worry about lining up pairs of eyelets between the doublet and hose.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
I'd like to make a new shirt to wear with my 16c suits. I made a faux-blackworked shirt a long time ago by just slapping some fancy sewing machine stitches on a plain shirt, but I'd really like to have something better. I need to figure out exactly how the collar is patterned before I do anything fancy on it embroidery-wise. I may just make a plain one first.

Some examples of what I'm talking about:

Moroni, 1560: Same pattern in black on collar and cuffs, maybe at different sizes? Plus the vertical bands on the collar. Cuffs are turned back over the sleeves.
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/adoratio.html

Moroni, 1550s: A simpler embroidery pattern, with white tassels at the corners of the collar.
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/baptism.html

Moroni, 1575: A very narrow band of embroidery on the collar. Maybe a little on the cuffs as well, but they're only barely visible out of the sleeves.
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/contarin.html

Moroni, 1550: Undecorated collar with white tassels, no cuffs.
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/port_gen.html

Moroni, 1560: An interesting geometric pattern in red, with red tassels on the collar. Wide turnbacks on the cuffs.
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/portduke.html

Also this one:
Moroni, 1550-1560: Plain collars with maybe a black edge, no cuffs.
http://tinyurl.com/alborghetti-and-son
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

The second sleeve is on, so the doublet is very nearly done. The only thing I need to add is the lacing strip at the waist, which isn't visible here anyway. I'm pretty happy with the fit, but of course this is the first point where I've actually been able to determine how the darn thing actually fits. I have surprisingly good range of motion with my arms and generally it fits well, but it's just a tad snug at the armholes. Much as it pains me to contemplate it, I think that adding a small gusset at the top of the side seams and replacing the gussets in the back seams of the sleeves should give me that extra bit of ease. I took these pictures in direct afternoon sun, so you can see what I mean about the silk looking better outside. More angles available as usual by clicking on the picture.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)

Got the first sleeve finished and installed. I'm glad I cut the sleeve as big as I did, because when all was said and done it still ended up pretty close. Not uncomfortably tight, but certainly snug. I actually wanted it quite a bit looser, but I can live with it the way it is. The gusset set into the back seam took a little more work than I'd expected, but not that much, really. I decided to add piping to the back seam of the sleeve to continue the pattern of cords and slashes, and I'm very happy with how it turned out. Click the pictures for more angles. I'm having to crank up the exposure on these to show details because the taffeta doesn't photograph very well, at least not indoors.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
Working on the first sleeve now. I marked out where the cords would go on the back side, but you can see where the pressure of the chalk pencil has left indentations in the silk.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
I still haven't decided exactly how I want to do the hose for this suit. Here are some options I'm looking at:

Bronzino, 1551: narrow panes, not heavily padded
http://www.wga.hu/html/b/bronzino/2/capponi.html

Bronzino, 1531: embroidered and slashed tight hose
http://www.wga.hu/html/b/bronzino/2/dellarove.html

Moroni, 1560: medium width panes, not heavily padded
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/gentlema.html

Moroni, 1550: paned in two sections
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/port_gen.html

Moroni, 1555-59: loose hose with vertical slashes
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg

Moroni, 1560: wide panes with slashing (Spanish)
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/portduke.html

Moroni, 1570: vertical panes, heavily padded
http://www.wga.hu/html/m/moroni/tailor.html

Tintoretto, c.1550: wide panes with slashing
http://www.wga.hu/html/t/tintoret/8/05armour.html

Titian, 1554: embroidered panes (Spanish)
http://www.wga.hu/html/t/tiziano/10/22/10philip.html
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
The buttons are on the doublet, for the most part (I was short one bead of the right size, so I have a temporary button in one spot). I'm pretty happy with it at this point, though I wonder if the collar is still a bit too tall. I could cut it down some without too much trouble. The front is a little wobbly, but I'm hoping that'll smooth out some once the weight of the hose is pulling it down. There are also pictures from the front, side, and back.
peteyfrogboy: (Default)
Attached the collar and skirt to the doublet, and bound all the edges. Working on buttons and buttonholes now.

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